Exactly 209 years ago today, Charles Darwin was born. A bit more recently (Oct-Dec 2014), we sailed part of the now world-famous route that Darwin once took on the HMS …
The Glacier and the Sill
“I was sweating it a bit,” our captain confesses. “We only had 1.8 meters under the keel. On the way back, we need to steer a bit more to the …
Ushuaia
Ushuaia: ‘the end of the world,’ they proudly call it here. And indeed, this is pretty much where it ends. It’s the height of summer, but snow, rain, and strong …
Tied to a Tree
We’re sailing between the islands of Patagonia. Wisps of fog, dark green mountain slopes, gray rocks. The wind is chilly, the rain stings your face. It’s magical and eerie at …
Patagonia: Big, Cold Feet
Why is this remote corner actually called Patagonia? It means ‘Land of the Bigfeet,’ and like many names, it originated from a misunderstanding. Ferdinand Magellan set foot here on October …
Pacific Wind
At 8 PM, we cast off the lines in Punta Arenas. As we sail away, the sun sets the clouds and cirrus wisps in a light pink glow. We hoist …
