“Welcome to Port Lockroy, the southernmost post office in the world.” Sarah, who is British, is waiting for us by the rocks when we arrive at Port Lockroy in our zodiac. The part of Antarctica where we’re wandering around is claimed by the British. That’s why they have a base there.
The Chileans claim this same part of Antarctica, and they’ve also built bases here and there. If you sail for half an hour from a Chilean base, you’re bound to run into an Argentine base, because the Argentines also believe this part of Antarctica belongs to them.
Officially, Antarctica belongs to no one—or to everyone. But just in case we all ever change our minds about that, the British, Chileans, and Argentines (and the French, Russians, Norwegians, and Americans, for that matter) have already secured their piece.
But then again, what do you do all day at a base like that? The British have set up a large part of their quarters as a shop, and another part as a museum. Five years ago, the four girls who ‘man’ Port Lockroy all slept in one room, with a table and stove in the middle. Four months together in 200 square feet, with no privacy at all. A separate little building has since been added, so their former sleeping and living space is now part of the museum.
Once we step out of the zodiac, we walk among the penguins toward the little shop. Sarah tells us about the history of the base (founded during World War II) and gives us the latest details on the penguin population that’s scurrying, screaming, and pooping all over the place.
The first penguin chicks have already hatched and are chirping for attention. And they’re getting plenty of it from our cameras. Afterward, we brush our boots clean to head inside. The shop offers a disappointing collection of postcards (only 5 kinds), but of course, you don’t want to miss out on the stamp from the southernmost post office.
A little later, everyone is sitting at a table in the museum writing, stamping, and sticking. The next supply boat that visits Port Lockroy will take the cards to the Falkland Islands. From there, they’ll head toward Europe. When? Sometime this year. Hopefully.
