We’re sailing between the islands of Patagonia. Wisps of fog, dark green mountain slopes, gray rocks. The wind is chilly, the rain stings your face. It’s magical and eerie at …
Patagonia: Big, Cold Feet
Why is this remote corner actually called Patagonia? It means ‘Land of the Bigfeet,’ and like many names, it originated from a misunderstanding. Ferdinand Magellan set foot here on October …
Pacific Wind
At 8 PM, we cast off the lines in Punta Arenas. As we sail away, the sun sets the clouds and cirrus wisps in a light pink glow. We hoist …
Animal Day
Sometimes the ocean seems as dead as a doornail. Of course, there are countless animals in it, but days go by without us seeing even one. There’s a good chance …
Rolling Waves
For the first time in 5 weeks, I put on my shoes during the day. Not because it’s too cold to walk barefoot, but to brace myself. It’s like climbing …
The Southern Cross
The captain is lying next to me on the bench. Knees drawn up, binoculars to his eyes. I stand at the helm and gaze with him at the stars. “Look, …
Your Compass and Course…
Steering a ship seems easy. You’re given a course (or you figure it out yourself), you look at the compass, and make sure the correct number aligns precisely with the …
